Most national coverage of West Texas centers on Marfa! Marfa! Marfa! But just half an hour away is the oft-overlooked town of Alpine: bigger, chiller, more affordable, and home to the excellent Big Bend Brewing Co.

Widely considered America’s most remote brewery—its nearest competitor is more than 200 miles away—the scrappy facility is open to the public just four days a week from 4 to 6 p.m. But don’t let that narrow window deter you; head brewer Amy Oxenham needs alone time so she can focus on making the good stuff. (Oxenham has big shoes to fill. Big Bend was started by Steve Anderson, co-founder of Waterloo Brewing Company, Texas’ first brewpub, and the long-time brewmaster at Live Oak Brewing in Austin. Devastatingly, he died of cancer in late 2015 at age 53.)

Depending on when you visit and how the taps are looking, a $5 flight buys you a half dozen or so short pours, including perhaps an unfiltered IPA, chocolatey porter, and rare sour Berliner Weisse. However the pints fall, this brewery is a Lonestar luminary. You should thank your big, bright Texas stars if you have a chance to drink here.

3401 US-90, Alpine, TX; 432-837-3700.

Additional photo by Cartogramme