Mamak on Buford Highway is the closest thing Atlanta has to authentic hawker fare—heavy on the Malaysian and Singaporean flavors, with delicious traces of Chinese and Indian influence. Portions are huge and cheap, and plates fly out of the kitchen in no discernible order—here comes the roti canai and fiery sambal okra! Then the steaming-hot fish head soup with mustard greens! And now the wok-fried char kway teow, its dreamy tangle of rice noodles tossed with shrimp, squid, egg, bean sprouts, dark soy sauce, and pungent chili paste. But you’re not done yet. There’s still curry laksa, bak kut teh (an intense pork rib/belly/stomach soup), preserved egg-and-pork porridge, and mee goreng coming. And don’t forget dessert: shaved ice with red beans, or maybe cendol with pandan jelly and coconut milk. Really, the only mistake you can make here is under-ordering. Get extra. The leftovers alone are worth the trek.

5150 Buford Hwy NE, Ste. A-170, Doraville, GA; 678-395-3192.

Additional photos by Cartogramme