You know who’d approve of the Justin Bieber votive candle in the open kitchen at Milktooth? Justin Bieber. You know who approves of Milktooth? Bon Appétit, Food & Wine, the James Beard Foundation, and everyone else with tastebuds. This brunch-only restaurant, housed in a former garage in Indianapolis, has won its share of accolades thanks to chef Jonathan Brooks’ creative reimagining of the love-it-or-loathe-it meal. But how can anyone hate on a smoked Swiss and shiitake Dutch baby or popcorn grits with housemade ricotta, Smoking Goose bacon, egg, and scallion? Boring ancient grain porridge gets dressed up with coconut milk, blackberry jam, pistachios, and hemp seeds, making it anything but boring. There’s even fried Lebanon bologna with egg salad on toast.

Like, what? Is this even real? The revelations don’t end with the food, either. There are more than 20 house cocktails on the menu, plus speciality drinks like City of Saints espresso prepared with sage, vanilla, coconut, and a caramel sticky bun sauce. Speaking of buns, hon, pay special attention to the pastry spread near the door. Zoe Taylor is the madwoman behind those salted rye brownies and sourdough chocolate croissants. Whatever. Your diet is stupid.

534 Virginia Ave., Indianapolis, IN; 317-986-5131.