One of the best places to get your mitts on durian—the undisputed king of love-it-or-loathe-it fruits—is the Or Tor Kor fresh market in Bangkok. It’s not the cheapest produce around, but it is some of the finest—and you can buy it whole or pre-peeled and wrapped up for easy takeaway. The firmer the flesh, the riper (and sweeter/stinkier) the fruit.
Navigating the open-air market couldn’t be easier: It’s brightly lit, well-organized, and uncharacteristically clean (all qualities you’ll pay for in the modest price mark-ups). Don’t stop at the durian, though. Or Tor Kor is also known for its mangosteens, fermented papaya salads (som tam), rice-and-curry stalls, fried oyster pancakes, braised duck noodles, and grilled Isaan sausage. For dessert, try the khanom bang, a two-bite crispy coconut crepe topped with foi thong, a sweet and shredded egg yolk. The market is located across from Chatuchak Weekend Market, but you might consider visiting on a weekday for less frenzied browsing.
Kamphaengphet and Paholyotin Rds., Bangkok, Thailand; no phone.

