Like many noodle bars in Fukuoka, Japan, Ramen Unari makes a mean bowl of tonkotsu. The unctuous broth is deeply porky with a funky seafood finish, its medium-boiled egg the right amount of squishy, and the pickled ginger a welcome zing in every bite. It’s a hard dish to improve upon, but given the chance, try to order the limited-edition “Genoa” variety. It’s the same shut-the-front-door broth, only with a dollop of nutty basil pesto swirled in. Japtalian, Italenese—call it what you want, the fusion works.

6-23 Nakasu, Hakata-ku, Fukuoka, Japan; +81-92-281-8278.