Planning a trip to see the art on Naoshima and Teshima islands in Japan’s Seto Inland Sea? Good, you should. You should also save a bundle by staying in the nearby port town of Uno and taking a ferry over each day. Uno Slope House is a budget traveler’s dream: comfortable and relaxed, with hosts who know the area inside and out. In fact, they were the ones who directed us to Osaka-ya (大阪屋食堂), a family-run haunt serving grilled teriyaki fish, filling bowls of katsudon (deep-fried pork cutlets over rice with egg, nori, and other fixins), and generous pork katsu sets, accompanied by rice, pickled veg, and miso soup. Finding the place can be tricky if you don’t speak Japanese, so punch this address into Google Maps—2-3-20 Chikko Tamano Okayama—and trust us, it’s worth it.