Horseback riding at Rancho Xotolar is one of the best things you can do in San Miguel de Allende, Mexico. And it isn’t even in San Miguel—the family-owned ranch sits 45 minutes outside the city, deep in a no-man’s landscape of arid hills and canyons. Tomás and Felíx Morín have had this land in their family for generations; today, they take riders of all experience levels on both relaxed back-country tours and intense cattle drives. The terrain is steep and rocky, but what a thrill to trot along perilous cliffs and canter through riverbeds. From the highest vantage points, you can even see pre-Hispanic Toltec pyramids in the distance.

Tomás speaks excellent English and Spanish and will engage you in both. He sings and whistles like the old Spaghetti Westerns and stops every now and again to water his horses or slice a prickly pear off a cactus (snack time!). Post-ride, he’ll lead you back to the ranch, where his sister has prepared a veritable Mexican feast: potato enchiladas, chile rellenos, smoky beans, yellow rice, cacti salad, and homemade tortillas and queso blanco (you can help milk the cows, if you like). You’ll eat by candlelight if you opted for a sunset or evening tour, listening intently as Tomás regales you with stories of the years he spent “breaking” wild horses in Texas. It is truly a singular experience. To book, contact Tomás directly at xotolarranch@hotmail.com or 415-154-6275.

Additional photos courtesy of Rancho Xotolar