Emily Lush is a writer and communications consultant from Brisbane, Australia. After spending last year in Cambodia (and writing about it for us here), she was looking for something completely different. “I took myself to the extreme opposite side of Asia, to the Trans-Caucasus—Georgia, Armenia, and Azerbaijan,” says Lush. “I spent 12 weeks traveling around the region, but it was Georgia that stole my heart.” Part of the appeal, she says, was the republic’s obscurity: “I’m always amused that Georgia requires a qualifier (the country), so that people know what you’re talking about.”
Scroll down for some highlights from Lush’s Georgian adventuring and check out her thoughtful Wander-Lush blog for an deeper dive into one of the most unique countries in Central Asia. 🇬🇪❤️🇬🇪
“The initial challenge for any first-time traveler to Georgia is trying to make sense of where you are. Sandwiched between Russia to the north and Turkey, Iran, and its Trans-Caucasian cousins to the south, Georgia is geographically Asian but undeniably European in its outlook. The country has an imperial history, a healthy Persian influence, and a Mediterranean-like climate, all encased in a thick layer of post-Soviet concrete and stoicism. Despite (or maybe because of) these vying influences, Georgia feels completely unique—people converse in their own language, indulge in their own cuisine, and worship in their own particular ways. From a traveler’s perspective, Tbilisi, Georgia’s capital, offers a little bit of everything: Turkish-style sulphur baths, Parisian boulevards, Orthodox cathedrals, Zoroastrian fire temples, an Armenian old town, a Jewish quarter, carpet shops, brutalist mosaics (like the old House of Political Education, pictured here), and markets that trade in everything from pomegranates to pickles.”
“The country’s past may be difficult to navigate, but Georgia certainly has a clear idea of where it wants to go. Tbilisi is a city that looks to the West; its mix of old and ultramodern, grunge and gentrification gives it a Berlin-circa-the-early-’90s atmosphere. It’s oozing with cool—from the underground electronic music clubs to the politically charged street art. Once a Soviet sewing factory, Fabrika is a new hostel/co-working space that’s a nucleus of the city’s creative scene. Flying Painter, one of the independent boutiques with a shopfront inside Fabrika, pays homage to the building’s history by stocking a small collection of women’s garments sewn in the factory and unearthed during the renovations.”
“Following neighboring Armenia’s lead, Georgia was the second country in the world to adopt Christianity as its state religion in the 1st century. The church continues to hold powerful influence over society today, as evidenced by Orthodox rituals—crossing oneself as the bus passes a monastery, pausing at the gate of a church to genuflect—that are played out on the streets by young and old alike. Another product of Georgia’s supercharged piety is its spectacular houses of worship—be they clandestine cave monasteries or ostentatious mountaintop cathedrals. None is more impressive than Gergeti Trinity Church. Seated at the foot of Mount Kazbek in the Greater Caucasus mountains, a pilgrimage to the church from the nearby town of Kazbegi is one of the most rewarding things you can do in Georgia.”
“If religion is king in Georgia, wine comes in at a close second. The two go hand in hand in Kakheti, Georgia’s easternmost region that’s home to as many vineyards and cellar doors as churches and cloisters. Along with southwestern Armenia, this was the global birthplace of viniculture. The distinctive color and taste of Georgian wine owes to the unusual technique by which it’s made: grapes, leaves, stems, seeds, and all are fermented underground in an earthen vessel called a qvevri. Most families make their own wine (hence the trellises in front of many houses, even in downtown Tbilisi), but Kakheti is the cradle of Georgia’s commercial wine industry.”
“Public transport in Georgia is plentiful and affordable, making the humble marshrutka (minivan) the best way to get around. Riding a marshrutka, intercity train, or even the Tbilisi metro can be an adventure in itself. There are a few things I noticed about public transport that I think speak volumes about Georgians: If you jump on a bus and you’re too far away from the on-board ticket machine, people will happily pass their wallets down a line of strangers to the front of the bus. If there’s only standing room available, the nearest seated passenger will grab your bag and hold it on their lap for you. Georgia constantly ranks as one of the safest countries in the world and its these little acts of kindness that make you feel at home (more on that later). A network of intercity marshrutky links Tbilisi with the rest of Georgia and continues into Armenia, Azerbaijan and Turkey—but first you’ll need to brave the chaotic Didube Station, Tbilisi’s main bus terminal and your gateway to the country’s west.”
“Before there was Joseph Stalin, there was Iosif Dzhugashvili, a peasant boy born and raised in Gori, about 50 miles west of Tbilisi. Gori’s Stalinist subculture venerates their most infamous homeboy who, if nothing else, helps the small town earn its tourist dollars. Some of his most avid fans work at the Stalin Museum, a vast wundercabinet dedicated to preserving an admittedly rose-tinted version of the leader’s legacy through photos, documents, and other ephemera. While most cities poignantly toppled their Stalin statues after the collapse of the Soviet Union, Gori’s still sits proudly in the museum courtyard—right by Stalin’s personal armored train carriage, which you can see as part of the tour. Reach the museum via Stalin Avenue, past Stalin Park—just look for the massive Stalin poster advertising the local grocery store. It’s eerie to say the least, but a must-visit for any history buff.”
“You won’t find any mention of Chiatura in the Lonely Planet guidebook. This former mining boomtown now stands as a not-so-well-preserved relic of Georgia’s Soviet past, famous for being home to ‘Stalin’s ropeway’—a network of 17 cable cars that once connected the town center with manganese pits set high in the hills. The few tourists who do make it to Chiatura come to ogle at the impressive concrete station buildings and rusted carriages, most of them 1954 originals and a handful still operating today. Despite my better judgement, I went for a ride on one of the lines and it certainly was a thrilling experience. You can visit Chiatura as a day trip from Kutaisi in western Georgia’s Imereti region, with a stop off at Katskhi Pillar on the way.”
“When it comes to indulgent food, Georgians are particularly innovative. Khachapuri (cheese-stuffed bread that’s sometimes served with a nob of butter and raw egg yolk on top) and khinkali (meat-stuffed dumplings) are both dinner-table favorites, but there’s no snack food more quintessentially Georgian than the churchkhela, or Georgian Snickers as it’s sometimes called. It’s made by sewing nuts (usually hazelnuts or walnuts) onto a piece of string which is then coated in a thick, sweet roux made from fruit juice (grape or feijoa are popular choices). I got to see the process for myself at Gorduli, a family-run churchkhela manufacturer outside of Kutaisi. There are a few things to note before diving into a churchkhela: a good one has a bit of give; the white crust on the outside is crystallised sugar, not mold; and it’s good etiquette to pull out the entire length of string before you start chomping away.”
“Despite decades of occupation, Georgia has managed to hold onto both its religion and an incredible ethnic and cultural diversity. The impenetrable terrain of the Greater Caucasus mountains along the Russian border isolated clans and tribes, resulting in what some scholars consider to be the second-highest language density in the world (after Papua New Guinea). One ethnic group, the Svans, are traditionally known as battle-hardened warriors whose families dwelled not in lowly houses, but in fortified towers. Towers dating back to the 9th century still characterize the landscape in Mestia and Ushguli, the two main villages in Georgia’s northwestern Svaneti region. Both are ideal spots to learn about the Caucasus tribes and double as starting points for treks into Georgia’s rugged north.”
“Spectacular scenery, fascinating history, a bottomless supply of wine and unbelievably good food—Georgia has it all. It’s easy to get around, safe, and budget-friendly, with enough topographical and climatic variety to please the most discerning traveler. But it must be said that it’s Georgian hospitality that really makes this country what it is: utterly memorable. In Georgia, a guest is considered a gift from God and outsiders are treated like family. Walking through the market or down the street on any given day, travelers must constantly field selfie requests and dinner invitations. My advice is to take up as many of those generous offers as you can and soak up as much of the language and culture as possible.”
And that, friends, wraps up our Georgia-themed takeover. Writer and communications consultant Emily Lush has left the laundry-strung streets of Georgia behind; she’s now working for an NGO in Hanoi, Vietnam, and continuing her travels in Southeast Asia. To keep up with her wild adventures, check out wander-lush.org and follow her on Instagram at @emily_lush. For gorgeous photography with insightful captions, she’s tops.