Every great order at Gazi in Melbourne’s Central Business District starts the same way—with fresh pita and dip. Not the tzatziki, though; you want the more out-there options like beetroot with feta and walnut pralines or the miso-brushed eggplant, whipped into a frenzy with capers and yogurt. Chase those with a bright salad (the Kolokitha has charred pumpkin, crème fraîche, toasted nuts, and spring onions), a small plate or two (we liked the grilled octopus with black garlic and orange butter), and fancified Honey-I-Shrunk-the-Souvlaki versions of the hand-held drunk food head chef George Calombaris serves at Gazi’s casual sister eatery, Jimmy Grants. For an overview of Calombaris’ tastiest work, consider his seven- or ten-item tasting menu ($49 and $69 AUD [$37-$52 USD], respectively), chased with a spine-straightening ouzo flight.

2 Exhibition St., Melbourne, Victoria, Australia; +61=3=9207-7444.

Additional photos courtesy of Gazi