No question, fried chicken is having a moment. Exhibit A: the speedy Chik-fil-A covers pumped out at David Chang’s Fuku. Exhibit B: the nationwide rollout (and runaway success) of the Chick’n Shack sandwich at Shake Shack. Those stack-ups are fine, tasty, and totally serviceable—but Denver chef Justin Brunson blows them all away with Royal Rooster, his chicken sandwich-themed pop-up at his popular restaurant Old Major. Hours are Monday through Friday, 11 a.m. to 3 p.m., at the restaurant bar.

Brunson does four spins on the classic chicken sandwich here, each served on a squishy bun with your choice of grilled chicken breast or deep-fried chicken thigh. (Um, like it’s even a question?) The Korean Rooster comes with kimchi and Kewpie. The French Rooster is cloaked in house-cured ham, melty Swiss cheese, thyme, shredded lettuce, and glorious mayo. It’s goddamn transcendental. For haters of the bird, Brunson also makes a mean hamburger, French fries cooked in peanut oil, and a simple Caesar salad with romaine, kale, and Grana Panado cheese. Delivery is available for worker bees, but Aperol spritzes and $5 draft beer and keg wine await those who dine in.

3316 Tejon St., Denver, CO; 720-420-0622.