Castillo San Felipe del Morro, a.k.a. El Morro, may be the biggest tourist magnet in Old San Juan, but it’s the eerily beautiful Santa María Magdalena de Pazzis cemetery next door that really steals our heart. And, it would seem, the hearts of locals. Visit the 16th-century fortress on a Friday or Saturday afternoon and you’ll see numerous picnickers perched atop the graveyard’s 40-foot walls, legs dangling over the precipice and eyes locked on the sea of tombstones below. For a place so mired in death, life is all around. Kids fly kites on rolling green, teenagers steal kisses in the shadows of tombstones, and grown-ups sneak bottles of who-knows-what up to their lips. It’s good people-watching, but honestly? Nothing tops El Morro’s bluest-of-blue view of the mighty Atlantic Ocean.

501 Calle Norzagaray, San Juan, Puerto Rico; 787-729-6960.