You’d be wise to cover your mouth and nose with a handkerchief when exploring Khari Baoli, the largest wholesale spice bazaar in Asia. It’s not that the Indian street smells bad—it actually smells amazing. But one deep breath and you’ll be coughing and choking on chili powder fumes to the point of tears. Thousands of shoppers come here every day to pick up herbs, spices, nuts, grains, pulses, pickles, chutney, tea, salt, and regional specialties like masala cashews, nutty jaggery cakes, puffed lotus seeds, and dried plums from Kashmir. The centuries-old thoroughfare is located at the western end of the chaotic Chandi Chowk market in Old Delhi, adjacent to the imposing Fatehpuri Masjid, which is also worth a gander. To help make sense of the madness, here and elsewhere in Old Delhi, sign up for a tour with Anubhav Sapra of Delhi Food Walks. He knows the area inside and out and will show you all of the best stuff, from lamb kebabs to secret kulfi garages.
Chandni Chowk, New Delhi, Delhi, India; no phone.
